Image: Pashupatinath Temple, Kathmandu
The chapter “Kathmandu” narrates a journal of the trip experienced by Vikram Seth who visited Kathmandu. This chapter is an excerpt from his book Heaven Lake. The author hitchhiked from China to visit India, along the route he crossed Tibet and Nepal. In this story, the author narrates his experience during his stay in Kathmandu in the form of a travelogue where he vividly describes the intricate details of the city and what he feels about it. He visited two of the most popular temples of the city, notably, the Pashupatinath temple and the Baudhnath Shrine he further goes on to narrate the difference between the two temples and the atmosphere surrounding them.
Kathmandu is a beautiful place with majestic temples and shrines adorned with mesmerizing architecture and beautiful sculptures. Kathmandu is also a place that has very narrow and busy streets. The author was roaming around the streets looking here and there, absorbing all the flamboyant ambiance of Kathmandu. Later on, the author bought marzipan, it is a sweet prepared with grated almonds. He also had a corn-on-the-cob roasted with salt, chilli powder. These were the food items along with the exhaustion of the trip which he had to wash down with a bottle of Coca Cola.
Vikram Seth was visiting the streets of Kathmandu and he was looking around the corners and absorbing the overall beauty and atmosphere of Kathmandu. While he was at it, he saw a flute seller standing across the corner of the square near the hotel. The flute seller from time to time used to stand the pole on the ground and selected one of the many flutes he was selling and was playing them. At times the sound used to rise above other noises on the street and at times, he played it low. The pole had lots of flutes attached on top of it which were protruding in all directions. This looked similar to quills of a porcupine to the author.
The flute seller on the street was selling various kinds of flutes. All the flutes had different sets of features and were associated with various cultures from different parts of the world. The seller had a reed neh, a flute that is used universally. In addition, he had a Japanese Shakuhachi, which was a Japanese and ancient Chinese longitudinal end-blown flutes. He was selling the bansuri of Hindustani Classical music. He also had the clear and breathy flutes of South America and Chinese flutes with distinct high-pitched sound. All these flutes have specific fingering and compass.
The flute seller was standing at the corner of the street with a pole that had different kinds of flutes attached on top of it. At times, he was resting the pole on his shoulder and then again he would stand the pole on the ground and would pick one flute at a time and would start playing them. The seller would often play the flute louder than the traffic noises or the cries of other sellers, and he would play meditatively without displaying much effort. The other vendors would shout to grab the attention of other customers but he would not, the flute seller used to play the flute and would make occasional sales and then would go on to get indulged in jovial conversation with other sellers.
The ambiance of the Pashupatinath temple was a sight of hullabaloo, people were trying to grab the attention of priests, and there were other sellers on the street also that were trying to grab the attention of the devotees. They often were trying to dupe them. There were monkeys on street who often are fighting against one another and since they are symbolical of the Hindu God Hanuman nobody disturbs them.
The ambiance of the Baudhnath Shrine on the other hand quite calm and serene. The Baudhnath Shrine had different Tibetans who were selling nick-nacks. This place was missing a huge pilgrimage. The sites of the Pashupatinath temple and the Baudhnath Shrine were highly contrasting to one another.
The most frequented streets of Kathmandu are quite narrow. These streets are loud and full of life. The streets are filled with vendors and shops and some are selling things that are used for worship. There are fruit and flute sellers on the street. The corners were filled with the cacophony of loudspeakers blaring different kinds of music.
The flute is said to be one of the most basic of musical instruments. An individual simply needs to breathe and play soulfully. Almost all the civilizations across the period have a kind of flute associated with their period. It is because of this simplicity of the instrument and prevalence across the world in almost every phase of mankind that the author says, to hear any flute is to be drawn into the commonality of all mankind.
Q1. What is the essence of the story Kathmandu?
Ans. Kathmandu is a travelogue that is an extract from Vikram Seth’s book Heaven’s Lake. Kathmandu is a personal account of the travelling experience of the author during his stay in Kathmandu and his experience in the streets and various sites of Kathmandu.
Q2. What is the author's conclusion on Kathmandu?
Ans. The author developed a balanced perception of the place. These pilgrimage sites have imparted a contrasting reflection on the Author. The streets of Kathmandu are jovial and full of energy which was an anthropological treat to the Author.
Q3. What difference did Vikram Seth notice between the flute seller and other vendors?
Ans. Vikram Seth noticed that the flute seller had its tempo of conducting his business. He would not scream aloud, rather, he would draw the attention of the customers by playing the flute meditatively. He would make occasional sales, talk to other vendors and again start to play different flutes.
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