France was the fashion capital prior to World War I. French designers served as a source of inspiration and direction for American women. People were able to differentiate between the social classes and set themselves apart, showcasing their money and status, by dressing in the latest high trends and keeping up with the designers’ newest collections. In the late 19th and early 20th centuries, bustles and tightened waists were popular in women’s clothing. Corsets were worn by women to highlight their petite waists and rounded behinds. A high-waisted, more fitted design that more closely matched a woman’s body’s natural curves became the fashionable silhouette in 1911.
As a result of the hobble skirt’s tight fit at the ankle, which prevented wearers of the design from taking full steps, it quickly gained popularity. Men’s clothes were already cosy and eminently wearable, while women’s clothes were gradually becoming less constricting and artificial. Suits were the standard attire for guys back then. A well- groomed man’s wardrobe included a frock coat (also worn with a top hat, walking stick, and flower) and a lounge suit. The morning suit had a cutaway jacket that could be worn with a top hat, a walking stick, and a flower in the lapel. The lounge suit of that time is still recognised today as a three-piece, single-breasted suit worn by a man with a tie.
There are few direct World War I influences in American fashion. During the shipping embargo, France briefly lost its position as the hub of fashion, but after the war was over, it regained it. Shorter skirts for women first became popular within a short period of time as a result of social changes brought on, in part, by the war and its aftermath. But World War II had a significant impact on American fashion. For instance, the ubiquitous T-shirt became fashionable in the years following the war with the help of Marlon Brando and James Dean, as did the government-issued (GI) underpants. French fashion imports were prohibited, just as they were during World War I. Additionally, the U.S. Production Board issued Limitation Order 85 in 1942, further limiting fashion’s appeal (L-85).
The Intention behind this order was to conserve more than 40 million pounds of wool fabric and 15% of domestic fabric manufacturing. In order to make vintage clothing more desirable, another objective was to freeze fashion. Many of the styles’ designs were dictated by L-85. Double pleats, patch pockets, and cuffs were no longer acceptable details. The new operative word was “rationing.” Less fabric was used, and the clothing for women was less full. As a result of the new austere style, the shirtwaist gained popularity. Hats were more subdued. The new regulations also applied to footwear, and no shoe may have a heel higher than half an inch. As a result of these constraints, styles did not change significantly over the course of the war. On May 8, 1945, or V-E Day, the L-85 restrictions were lifted.
Women’s bathing suits were similarly subject to the L-85 limitations; fabric usage was restricted. The two-piece swimsuit was thus created as a result. These were initially designed in modest shapes and with skirts. The more severe the regulations, the less modest the swimwear. The first bikini was introduced in 1946 and was named for the atomic bomb tests that took place in the Pacific near the Bikini Islands. Women’s clothing demands altered due to their new employment positions as well as the limited amount of fabric available for clothing during the war, forcing many of them to make do with outdated attire. Women’s coveralls and overalls, not frilly French-inspired fashion, were the newest trend.
Without including women’s hats and hairstyles, it is impossible to talk about practical clothing. Women were discouraged from wearing their hair loosely styled like Veronica Lake, a movie star, while working in factories. They retired their elaborate, feathered headgear in favour of a common substitute, the turban wrap. Snoods and tied-on kerchiefs were frequently worn by ladies to control their dangerously loose, flowing hair. Although hats were worn less frequently and by fewer ladies than in the prewar era, extravagance returned with the end of the Second World War with the introduction of “Liberation” hats from France. During John F. Kennedy’s presidency, hats saw a real decrease in popularity.
Fashion underwent significant modifications after World Wars I and II. Bikinis were invented, women’s skirts got shorter, and wearing pants grew more widespread and acceptable. Both formality and variety changed for guys. Prewar men were expected to dress differently for work, worship, and social engagements and had a greater wardrobe. Men stopped regularly dressing up due to the prolonged supply shortages during and after the war, and the casual suit started to be accepted for the majority of occasions. With the debut of the “New Look” in 1947, France reclaimed its preeminence in fashion design, while American and British designers acquired more clout. Both civilian and military gear now come standard with utility. The styles that Americans wore during the Second World War influenced those worn by Americans today.
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