It’s been said that history repeats itself, and fashion is no exception! As old as human civilization itself, Indian fashion is a mash-up of regional, cultural, and historical influences. What we are seeing present day is the culmination of decades’ worth of knowledge about changing fashion trends that has been passed down from generation to generation. Every decade or two, fashion in India and throughout the world repeats itself, adding esoteric twists to the present trends.
The fashion industry has had such a profound impact on our generation that it is now just as necessary as food and water. And keep in mind, we’re not just talking about wearing clothes; we’re also talking about the ever-evolving and altering fashion trends that we like incorporating into our wardrobes.
Since the days of ancient India itself, fashion has emerged in many forms. There is some evidence from the Harappa or Indus Valley Civilizations that woven cotton fabric was used. For plant fibres, flax plants were planted, and silkworms were raised for silk. Men had turbans draped over their heads, while the priest-kings wore robes over their shoulders. Women wore knee-length skirts and accessorised with bangles, earrings, and beaded necklaces. Even men donned jewellery, and all of this information is based on figurines found during archaeological digs. The dancing girl from Mohenjo-Daro is one of the first examples of Dhokra art, which is currently highly fashionable.
In ancient India, women dressed similarly to Iranian and Greek women throughout the Vedic era by wrapping a single fabric around their shoulders. They wore a lower pleated garment (paridhana; uttariya) with a belt (mekhala) around their waist and a shawl fabric across their shoulders. Pravana was the undergarment worn during the winter. These garments were worn by both men and women. The size and manner of dressing were the only differences.
Numerous dynasties, including the Mauryas, Sungas, Guptas, and Kushans, came to power after the Vedic age. Clothing was frequently made from materials such as wool, silk, cotton, jute, linen, and muslin. Women wore antariya in a variety of ways during the Mauryan and Sunga dynasties. In addition, a langoti that was attached to the middle of the kayabandh and passed between the legs from front to back and tucked behind served as the antariya, a brief strip of fabric. There are numerous additional ways to wear antariya. Antariya were initially opaque, but with time, they progressively became transparent. Antarariyas were made of linen, white cotton, muslin, and occasionally even cloth that had valuable stones and gold embroidery. Men wore antariya, which they hung from the waist to the calf or ankle, across their hips, and in between their legs.
In the majority of the dynasties, headgear and head wraps were a distinctive form of women’s dress. Both men and women wore head coverings and jewelry. Women wore armlets, layered necklaces, earrings, and baju bands, to name a few pieces of jewelry. That time period saw widespread knowledge of the weaving technique. Tassar, Eri silk, and Muga silk were also used, as well as furs and different types of wool and tassar. Delicately embroidered muslin fabrics in gold and purple hues made of the translucent material known as shabnam were also used. By this time, textile dyeing was well established. Due to the fine and delicate craftsmanship used then, the period of monarchy or kings that followed the age of dynasties had a significant impact on fashion even today.
King Akbar of the Mughal Empire had a distinctive fashion sense that influenced how people dressed. It was a synthesis of Muslim and Hindu culture and art. He wore a long kurta with a jacket that is reminiscent of sherwani patterns, along with a straightforward turban embellished with a jewel. He wore expensive jewellery, such as pearl chains, large rings that represented his royal status, and a waistline that was set with emeralds. From her royal attire, such as the lehenga choli, to her fine taste in jewellery, his wife Jodha had exquisite taste in clothing. Today’s bridal fashion designers are still inspired by her fine taste in jewellery.
Indian fashion has developed to make a unique impression on the global fashion industry. Even the traditional attire, such as the sari, ghagra choli, or dhoti, is still in vogue today. Indian clothing is renowned for its exquisite embroidered patterns that are used in sarees, saris, skirts, blouses, and shorts. Ritu Kumar, an Indian designer and authority on textile prints, reintroduced hand-block printing in Bengal while using zardozi embroidery—a technique often used on royal gowns during the Mughal era—on her clothing. This brought back the embroidery technique, which is today distinctive to Indian fashion, particularly in the creation of bridal robes. This opened the door for NGOs to help resurrect long-forgotten tie-dye, weaving, embroidery, and printing methods.
Bollywood set fashion trends in the 1960s that have continued to this day. Later in the 1950s, western culture was infused into Indian cinema, which was demonstrated by the performers and actresses’ various wardrobe choices. Indian fashion designers are currently creating clothing that has a contemporary, elegant, and fashionable appeal. The Indian fashion business has expanded significantly both domestically and globally as a result of the liberalisation of the Indian economy. Western nations today more than ever desire Indian designs.
It is difficult to fit the history of fashion into a single box because it is constantly changing and evolving. With a heavy emphasis on the resurgence of handlooms and regional craftsmanship, ethnic fashion in India is more popular than ever. In the global fashion industry, Indian fashion is still a force to be reckoned with. Indian designs have endured the test of time thanks to their rich history and culture, and they have developed to rule the fashion world thanks to their distinctive patterns and premium materials. The saree, kurti, lehenga, and many other traditional Indian garments are still in style and are worn as the world changes and westernisation increases. We can boldly claim that India has the most colourful and bright spectrum of fashion that is evergreen.
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