The facing method is the safest way to finish a neckline out of all the options. Regardless of your sewing expertise, you can sew it like a pro and make it look very natural by following a few simple steps. The two main forms of neckline facing are: one is a facing cloth that has been cut to fit the neckline, while the other is a bias binding facing.
For cutting the facing, you can use the same fabric as the outer garment, a lining material, or any lightweight drapey fabric that is the same color. Some people attach lightweight interfacing to the back of the facing to give the neckline a somewhat rigid finish. In order to define the shape or offer support to the neckline, you could also want to apply interfacing. To avoid unneeded bulk along the stitching line, you can cut the interfacing to fall inside the seamline. Some people might substitute interfacing for the facing at the back of the original neckline.
Major techniques are
Fold the cloth so that the face is on the inside of the fold, parallel to the selvage edge. Always pin and cut your patterns on the fabric’s unprinted side when cutting on the fold.
Set your front sewing pattern’s “cut-on-fold” line to the fold of the cloth. At the seam allowance, through both layers of fabric, pin the pattern in place.
By aligning the centre back fold line with the cloth’s fold and pinning through both layers of fabric, repeat this procedure with the back facing.
Carefully cut out the facings around any curved corners. The edge of the facing should be a straight, smooth curve that is trimmed perfectly to the stitching pattern.
Unfold the facings after removing the pins. You’ll note that the front face of a classic neckline is always more curled than the back. Knowing this will make it easier for you to align the facing with the raw edge of the neckline.
Pin the front and back facings’ shoulder edges together such that the faces of the two fabric layers are in contact (the wrong side of the fabric should be on the outside).
Pins should be positioned perpendicular to the seam for increased stability and simple removal during stitching.
Both shoulder seams should be machine stitched with the proper seam allowance (12”). On your sewing machine, don’t forget to backstitch at the start and end of each stitch.
The inside of the facing’s seam allowance should be ironed open.
Apply a finishing technique to the bottom raw edge of the facing after the shoulder seams are sewn together and pressed. The most popular methods for neatly completing a facing’s raw edge, depending on the fabric you are using, are serging, binding, machine stitching, or a baby hem (for light materials). On your home sewing machine, you may also use a zigzag stitch, but make sure the tension balance is set correctly for the cloth you’re using.
Starting at the shoulder seams, secure the facing’s raw edge to the edge of the neckline. Place a pin through both of the seams after exactly aligning the facing’s shoulder seams with the garment’s shoulder seams. Ensure that the fabric’s correct sides are touching. Accurate matching of the shoulder seams is necessary.
After stabilising the shoulder seams, place pins perpendicularly along the remaining raw edge of the neckline.
Machine sew at the proper seam allowance (1/2” in our guide) all the way around the neckline. The more curved part of the neckline will require some practice. Take your time and be cautious when applying this stitch because the neckline’s final shape will ultimately depend on how smooth this stitch line is.
A straight, curved stitch with the proper seam allowance should be the end product.
To relieve strain along the more curved portions of the neckline, snip the seam allowance with scissors at those curved spots while using a wedge clip. The snip should be placed about 1 mm away from the stitch, taking care not to cut through the actual stitch. Add a few notch clips for additional stress release around the back neckline and as necessary in between the wedges that have already been clipped. Avoid over-clipping the fabric, as this may weaken the seam and produce an unstable, less-durable edge.
Point the facing’s seam away from the garment when ironing. This step will get the facing ready for staystitching, which is important to make sure the facing sits flat within the garment and the borders of the neckline are consistently smooth. The facing should be the direction that the seam allowance faces.
Sew through the seam allowance on the reverse of the facing at a distance of about 1/8” from the seam. Understitching is the process of ensuring that the facing lies flat and points inward on the garment. If you are a new sewer, it will take some practise to get an understitch that is absolutely even, but keep in mind that practise makes perfect! The neckline’s edge will be more smoothly finished if the understitch is more even.
Iron the edge of the neckline after moving the facing inside the garment.
The facing must be tacked at the seams on the inside of the garment as a last step. This entails using a loop stitch to stabilise the facing and ensure that it stays permanently on the inside of the garment through the facing and seam allowance.
Finally, align the facing’s seams with the inside seams of the garment and stabilise by pinning through. Maintaining the pin in place, hand stitch the facing to the seam allowance of the garment a few times. On both sides of the seam allowance, repeat this procedure as indicated below. Don’t forget to take the pin out after you’re done. Apply the tacking technique to all of the clothing’s seams. As a result, the facing will be flat, stable, and unlikely to flip to the outside when washed and worn.
Facings are an excellent enhancement for styles made of moderate- to heavy-weight fabrics that are challenging to accomplish with top-stitched binding. Facings are typically regarded as a higher-end element that is used in less casual styles. You can use a similar technique to attach the armhole, sleeve cuff, and centre front facings once you have an understanding of the steps required to achieve a smooth, clean-finished neckline. Applying a facing will also teach you crucial sewing skills like stay-stitching, under stitching, and clipping the seam allowance for tension release, all of which are equally crucial in the sewing process.
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