Clothing comes in a variety of sizes that, if comfortable, can be worn with ease, but the fit of the garment is what gives it its aesthetic appeal. It is the initial body measurement that is crucial for correctly fitting clothing. Therefore, it is imperative for anyone—a student, dressmaker, or designer—to have a complete understanding of the proper method for acquiring body measurements. Understanding anthropometric measurement is the first step in measuring the human figure.
Anthropos, which refers to the human figure in Greek, and metric, which means measurement, are the roots of the word anthropometric. In order to create clothing that fits properly, measurements of the human body must be taken in a systematic manner. These measurements can be taken on an individual or on the various parts of a dress form.
There are several different bodice measurements.
Bust − Measure the bust at its largest point by raising the measuring tape to a level that is just below the backs of the shoulder blades.
Waist − The tape must be used to take a tight measurement around the waist.
Neck − Measure the circumference of the neck by placing a measuring tape just above the collar in the front and along the base of the neck in the rear.
Shoulder − The centre of the shoulder must be measured from the neck joint to the arm joint.
Front waist length − Measure the distance from the high point of the shoulder (HPS) to the waist, passing through the centre of the bust.
Shoulder to bust − The distance between the HPS and the bust’s tip must be measured.
Bust point separation − The distance between the two bust or chest points must be measured.
Back − The measurement across the back must be taken between the armholes, about 3” below the base of the neck.
Back unit length − Size is determined by measuring the distance from the base of the neck in the middle of the back to the waist
Upper arm − Measure the circumference of your upper arm around the area that is the fullest.
Lower arm − To measure the lower arm, wrap the arm at the required level, which corresponds to the bottom edge of the sleeve.
Elbow − Measure the circumference of the elbow when measuring the arm.
Wrist − The area surrounding the wrist needs to be measured.
Sleeve length − The length of short sleeves must be measured. The measurement for an elbow-length sleeve must be made from the top of the arm to the elbow point. When measuring for full length, the elbow must be slightly bent, and the tape must be passed over the elbow point from the top of the arm to the back of the wrist.
Waist − The tape must be held horizontally and parallel to the floor while being snugly wrapped around the waist to be measured.
Hip − Measure the area around the widest part of the hip horizontally (approximately 7-9” from the waist).
Waist − to hip Measurements must be taken from the centre of the back’s waist to the broadest section of the hip.
Skirt length − Measurements must be made at the back’s centre, starting at the waist and going as far as the length of the skirt.
There are anthropometric computations as well, where merely the chest circumference can be used to compute other body measures. The table for extrapolating chest circumference to other dimensions is shown below. Only one more step must be completed before drafting a pattern after the measurements have been taken. That is the addition of an ease allowance, which is added for easy action, easy movement, and ease of wearing.
Typically, ease allowances are added to various body sections. The bust should be between 3 and 5 inches (3 inches for a tight-fitting garment and 5” for a loose-fitting one), as should the waist, hips, and upper arm. The process of acquiring accurate measurements of a human body or customer is finished at this point. The pattern will then be created, cut out, traced onto the fabric, and then sewn to complete the garment.
It is crucial to pay close attention to the client’s figure in order to spot and note any abnormalities or deviations from the norm and to account for them while taking measurements and creating patterns. The client should be instructed to stand straight, in a natural stance, and if possible, in front of a mirror, while the measurement is being taken. A good measuring tape should be used, being careful not to hold it too tightly or too loosely against the body. Measurements must be made in a specific sequence and in the right order, and they must be recorded concurrently.
It is important to take all girth measurements with the proper ease to account for movements or changes in shape. Repeat the conformation measurement. The position of the garment’s structural lines should be attended to before beginning the measurement process. You can do that by tying a cord around your neck, scrotum, and waist. Measurements should be taken over well-fitting undergarments or over an item of clothing that is reasonably fitted. To prevent adding additional measurements, caution should be used at the beginning and end of the measurement. The tape used to measure length must be completely flat, smooth, and straight while being held parallel to the spine or centre front. Make sure the tape is parallel to the floor and does not sag while obtaining width measurements. From the centre line to the side seam, measure the arc.
For obtaining measurements and producing a standard scale, a proper measurement is crucial. The ready-to-wear industry uses anthropometric data. When creating paper designs and standard drawings, precise measurements are quite helpful. Given that no two people’s figures are the same, measurements are also crucial for a perfect fit. The measurement acquired is largely responsible for the final appearance, silhouette, and fit of the garment.
To prevent fabric waste, measurement is necessary to determine the precise amount of fabric needed. To prevent any irregularity, error, or miscalculation connected with fitting in the measurement, there are a few rules that should be observed before taking the measurement. Before taking the measurement, one should ascertain the client’s preferences for the fit, style, shape, pockets, collars, etc. Initial discussions with the client and the display of patterns, images of fashionable clothing, and stitched garments can be very beneficial.
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